Here’s Exactly What You Need to Do to Install Hardwood Floors by Yourself

There really is not a home improvement project that you can not do if you use your mind on it and are prepared with the right tools and materials. It’s even possible to build tiny houses with your own hands – I mean, did you miss this Amazon favorite that became viral?. When it comes to interior refurbishment, HGTV’s Chip Wade of Wade Works knows a thing or two about how to turn rooms into rooms that are always fresh. Recently, Chip has begun laying hardwood floors in the stunning Georgia Lake home – also known as Misty Mill – which he has renovated in recent months. (In case you are curious, he turned to Real Wood Floors.) If you were in the market for new flooring, you do not have to wait for the professionals to come to it. Consider it as your next DIY project instead. The following is required by the chip, along with the step-by-step instructions to accomplish this.

How to Install Hardwood Floors

What you will need:

hammer, tape measure, chalk line, air compressor, 16 g angled pneumatic nail gun, Pneumatic soil nailer, V-Nutenkelle, crowbar, Chop saw, table saw, Oscillating tool.

Manual:

Step 1: Remove everything from the room, clean the floors of dirt and vacuum.

Step 2: Bring hardwood floors into the air-conditioned room, where they are laid for acclimatization for 72 hours.

Step 3: Determine your starting point by drawing a parallel line from the optically most focused wall.

Step 4: Draw a chalk reference line to mark this starting point.

Step 5: Apply a moisture barrier first when laying hardwoods on a foundation or creepage surface. If the boards are 3 inches or more tall, Chip recommends using a glue help and nail method. If you start next to the wall, you will need to use an angled nailer that runs through the front of the first course and then through the tongues of the next course until you have enough space to use the pneumatic floor nailer.

Step 6: Spread the adhesive on the floor with a trowel no more than 3 inches in front of the course you are working on.

Step 7: Align the boards so that the spring remains free to nick, not the groove.

Step 8: When you reach the end of a course, you may need to cut out a jamb using an oscillating tool or a pole saw.

Step 9: Use a piece of ground as reference and cut the jamb 1/16 inch shorter than the ground level.

Step 10: When you have finished a course, make sure that your starter part for the next course is not more than 30 cm from a seam from the previous course. Use this method for all joints that are moving forward.

Step 11: As you approach the wall at the end of the room, you must re-use the angled nailer in the tongues of the boards until the last course.

Step 12: The last course will probably have to be torn to the correct width on a table saw and nailed to the face.

Step 13: Fill in all the nail holes appropriately and install a shoe shape if necessary.

Step 14: If the soil is not pretreated: sand, finish and voila!