Here’s Exactly What You Need to Do to Install Hardwood Floors by Yourself

Here’s the deal: there really isn’t a home improvement project you can’t do if you use your mind on it and are prepared with the right tools and materials. It’s even possible to build tiny houses with your own hands – I mean, have you missed this viral Amazon favorite? When it comes to interior renovation, HGTV’s Chip Wade of Wade Works knows a thing or two about how to transform spaces so they’re always fresh. Chip recently began laying hardwood floors in the stunning Georgia Lake house – also known as Misty Mill – that he has renovated in recent months. (In case you’re curious, he turned to Real Wood Floors.). If you’ve been to the new flooring market, you don’t have to wait for the professionals to come to make it happen. Instead, consider it your next DIY project. According to the chip, the following is needed, along with the step-by-step instructions to achieve this.

What you will need:

– hammer
– tape measure
– chalk line
– air compressor
– 16 g angled pneumatic nail gun
– Pneumatic nailer
– V-Nutenkelle
– crowbar
– Chop saw
– table saw
– Oscillating tool


Step 1: remove everything from the room, clean the floors of dirt and vacuum.

Step 2: Bring hardwood floors to the air-conditioned room where they will be laid for 72 hours for acclimatization.

Tip: At the beginning, pull parts out of different boxes to ensure proper material variance.

Step 3: Set your starting point by drawing a parallel line from the optically most focused wall.

Step 4: Draw a chalk reference line to mark this starting point. Tip: You can do this directly on the wall if you don’t have to adapt the floors to an adjacent room. Leave an expansion gap that corresponds to the thickness of the bottom around the circumference.

Step 5: First put on a moisture barrier when hardwoods are placed on a foundation floor or a crawling surface. If the boards are 3 inches or more, Chip recommends using an adhesive aid and nailing method. If you start off the wall, you’ll need to use an angled nailer that runs through the front of the first course and then through the tongues of the next courses until you have enough room to use the pneumatic floor nailer.

Step 6: Spread the glue on the floor with a trowel no more than 3 inches before the course you’re working on.

Step 7: Align the boards so that the tongue remains free for nailing, not the groove.

Step 8: At the end of a course, you may need to cut out a door jamb with an oscillating tool or jigsaw.

Step 9: Use a piece of floor for reference and cut the post 1/16 inch shorter than the floor height.

Step 10: When you have finished a course, make sure that your starter part for the next course is not more than 30 cm from a seam of the previous course. Use this method for all joints that move forward.

Step 11: If you approach the wall at the end of the room, you will need to use the angled nailer in the tongues of the boards until the last course.

Step 12: The last course probably needs to be ripped to the correct width on a table saw and nailed to the face.

Step 13: Fill in all nail holes appropriately and install a shoe shape if necessary.

Step 14: if the floor is not pre-treated: sand, finish and voila!